The Biochar Blog

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Essentially the most basic of cycling training programs for boosting your cycling endurance is riding over rather long distances regularly and consistently. This cycling training program aims at building your muscles’ strength and improving your cardiovascular system so that you have better oxygen uptake, body recovery and to build-up your leg muscles power. In this article, you will gain knowledge of a cycling training plan that will aid you to boost your cycling endurance.

I have split this cycling training program into five steps for better mastering. Listed here are the 5 steps;

1. Ascertain your target distance.

If your reason for training is so as to be competitive in a long distance cycling race, then your target distance is the distance of your race. Therefore whatever your reason, determine an average distance of how far you would want to ride.

2. Select a route that is almost like your bicycling route.

If the route you are practicing for is hilly at some parts and level in other areas, then simply look for identical routes and exercise in such routes. This should help you to adapt easily when you go and ride in that particular cycling route.

3. Ride a 3rd or a half of the distance.

To start your cycling training, begin by riding a percentage of your total target distance. That means that you should ride for example, 1/2 or 1/3 of the total distance you are aiming towards. You must do this so as to build up your cycling endurance with ease. Ride over this distance at a consistent pace, not necessarily at a high speed, but at a pace you can maintain almost always.

4. Practice this cycling training program every week.

You should then repeat this cycling exercise every week. As you repeat this cycling exercise, you ought to aim to increase the distance you cover each week by a little margin, as you improve to your target distance. This can be done by increasing the distance simply by, for instance, 5% your target distance week after week.

5. Lower your cycling distance and intensity from time to time.

After every 4 – 5 weeks of exercising, decrease the distance and intensity you ride in order to avoid burnout as well as to let your entire body recuperate.

Among the things you should remember is that, you should not over do any cycling exercise. If you think a cycling training program is just too strenuous, just simply decrease its intensity, by for instance decreasing the distance covered or perhaps the interval time. Ensure that you are at ease with whatever cycling training plans you follow.

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One of the fastest growing fields of investment these days is green investing. Since everyone is always looking for the next big thing this article will focus on what I think is going to be one of the best investment opportunities to look at in a long time: carbon offset credits.

It can be very confusing and certainly requires a good deal of time to sift through the various information that you can readily collect on the internet in regard to carbon offset investments. Do you have either the time or desire to do this? The question to one or both of these questions is probably no. But if you don’t do research, like you would with any other investment, then you’re taking a gamble. So what do you do? Let’s take a quick look at what the whole field is about.

What are carbon credits? That takes a bit of explaining but we’ll make it brief. Carbon credits are what many companies throughout the world are buying to offset their own carbon emissions. These are companies that are in countries that signed the Kyoto protocol a number of years ago. Countries that did not sign the protocol include the U.S., China and India although the Obama administration does want to require U.S. companies to abide by the protocol’s requirements soon. For now, in the U.S. there are voluntary requirements.

A unit of carbon credit is basically a unit of some type of project that consumes one ton of carbon dioxide most typically, although there are other greenhouse gases which are included, and in doing so creates oxygen. The most common way that this happens in nature is when plants and trees take in carbon dioxide and expel oxygen. So nature does this on its own and there are also a number of ways that man has devised to offset carbon admissions as well.

So what is a simple example of utilizing a carbon credit? You can buy the rights to the oxygen that is emitted by a certain amount of land in a rainforest and use this credit to offset the carbon that your company or even your household is emitting. There are simple ways to calculate the amount of carbon you or your company are responsible for emitting each year and once you calculate the amount you then know how much you have to purchase in the way of carbon credits to make your “carbon footprint” neutral.

How does all this work? This is quite easy, actually. There are many organizations, private and government, that have created many projects around the world that sustain rain forests and other natural areas that create oxygen and consume carbon dioxide. For the most part these projects are regulated by a number of organizations including the World Bank and various carbon exchanges. Do not deal with any project that is not regulated and/or endorsed by a respected international organization.

So all you have to do is purchase carbon credits from a regulated and approved project and your company or household can then become carbon neutral. You have paid to help control global warming and the general welfare of the planet on a very basic level. In many countries this is mandatory but in the countries mentioned above it is not. Still, even in these countries, many individuals and companies are purchasing carbon credits – companies, to proclaim their commitment to helping the environment, among other things, and individuals out of a sense of responsibility to help the environment. What is in the process of being created, therefore, is a huge market for carbon credit purchasing and trading.

And if there is a trading market there is a way to make money. Ever heard of “buy low, sell high.” In the second part of this article we’ll talk more specifically about why this market is taking off and who some of the major players are.

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In Good Company is a refreshing comedy, rallying against
corporate treachery and mass globalisation. Behind the laughs,
the Hollywood blockbuster carries some important lessons for the
first days on your new job!

Work Full Days

Carter Duryea has no friends, no family and no life outside of
his job. Recently divorced from his wife of seven months, Carter
plunges into his work like a man possessed. Or maybe his
obsession with work led to his failed marriage, but which came
first: the chicken or the egg? Either way, we roll over the
popcorn-filled floor in laughter at his expense.

Unlike Topher Grace’s character, we strongly suggest (read:
forcefully demand) you DO NOT sleep in the office, overdose on
caffeine, or substitute a flat-screen plasma TV in the cubicle
for the great outdoors. However, we do recommend working full
days, especially early on in the job. There’s nothing like
coming in late and leaving on the dot to kill any good first
impressions you managed to make.

Mentor Freshness

Dan Foreman enjoys a wonderful, albeit peculiarly hilarious,
relationship with his boss. This is insignificant – until you
learn that the young upstart Carter Duryea is half his age, took
over his position at the head of America’s most respected sports
magazine, and is dating his daughter.

While we cannot help but feel sorry for Dennis Quaid’s on-screen
persona, there is a warmth about the relationship that the two
men share. Dan is the father figure, inadvertently guiding
Carter despite the rift between them. Also endearing is Carter’s
attempts to protect Dan from being “let go”.

If there is no formal mentoring programme in your organisation,
find your own informal one! Connecting with a senior executive
in your first days could prove invaluable. There is nothing like
someone to show you the ropes and aid your assimilation into the
corporate culture. But do remember not to “force” the
relationship and do resist the urge to butter up your superiors!

A For Attitude

Do you jump out of bed each morning, ready to embrace your job
and your day at the office? Or do you, like the rest of us, hit
the snooze button on your alarm clock several times before
crawling out from under the sheets and hauling yourself into
through the doors of the company with less than 30 seconds to
spare?

Remember how it feels – or felt – on the first day: full of
excitement, and challenges. There’s a great deal to learn, and
so much to look forward to. You’re raring to go! Now, repeat
that experience everyday, and treat each day like it was your
first.

There is no better remedy to any problem than a positive
attitude. Show your team how enthusiastic you are to begin
working, and inspire others with your fervour. As Dan Foreman
puts it, the reason he is successful is that he believes in what
he does. He wouldn’t be doing it otherwise.

Do you believe in what you do?

In Good Company is a refreshing comedy, rallying against
corporate treachery and mass globalisation. Behind the laughs,
the Hollywood blockbuster carries some important lessons for the
first days on your new job!

First Impressions

Why do actors get typecast? Keanu Reeves finds it easier to
shake off a legion of demons than his Neo character in
Constantine; Bruce Willis dies hard even as a doting father in
Unbreakable; and Cameron Diaz by any other name is still as
sweet. Because it saves the director some very precious screen
time presenting a character to the audience. Need to portray a
middle-aged advertising sales manager who has dedicated 20 years
to the job? Dennis Quaid fits the bill perfectly. And one look
at Topher Grace already prepares you for his hilarious rendition
of a whiny and inexperienced marketing whiz kid.

What first impressions do you create? People typically make up
their minds about you two minutes after shaking your hand.
That’s 120 seconds. Or approximately the time it takes to dig
your nose in public – which, incidentally, kills your image and
is a huge no-no. Make the effort to wake earlier on your first
day, arrive 10 minutes ahead of time, and dress sharper than
usual. First impressions last, and you do not want to be
remembered for the cabbage in between your teeth.

After Work Fun

Dan Foreman shows off some fancy moves when his advertising
sales team takes to the court in the department basketball
match. Determined to prove he is a winner, despite his
considerable age, he inadvertently injures himself in the
process. While we snigger at the pre-historic Dan, this episode
shows how you, too, can score points outside the office.

Many companies have formal or informal after-hour activities,
ranging from football games to a couple of drinks at the nearest
watering hole. These are excellent opportunities to bond with
the new colleagues. Get involved, but do not overdo it. As in
all things, moderation is the key. You do not want to end up
with a cast on your arm, nor insanely inebriated after happy
hour.

Personal Business

We see Dan taking his daughter Alex out for a game of tennis
during office hours, which could be acceptable – or not,
depending on company policy. But when Carter Duryea takes the
abovementioned out for lunch, stares smitten at her photograph
on his computer monitor, and starts a relationship with her,
alarm bells go off.

Studies reveal that most of us are guilty of sneaking in some
amount of personal business on company time: Checking email,
buying stuff online, instant messaging. The aim is to keep these
private distractions to a minimum and stay focussed on work. Two
more rules here. Number one: You do not start dating the
daughter of the man whose job you are taking over. And number
two: You do not violate rule number one. Such romances only
serve to complicate matters and are advised against, especially
on the first day of the job!

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Right now, there are a few things you can do around your home to air seal it to save money during the winter months and during the summer.

As mentioned in Part 1, your home is a “thermal envelope”. That is the sum total of the home’s insulation systems: walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, and doors. These work more effectively with good, tight fits that seal out the weather and air. By having a tight seal on your home’s thermal envelope, the less energy you waste or lose by exchanging it too often with the air outside.

Now, we’re going to look at exterior doors, the laundry center, the water heater tank, HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning), attic insulation, attic ventilation and rain gutters.

Presenting The Doors!

We all want our doors to be attractive, secure, and weather proof. Like windows, when they are properly installed and kept in good condition, they can save you energy and money. If your door is hard to close or open, moves the whole door frame when you open or close the door, rattles when it is closed, or you see daylight and feel a draft coming from around it, then your door needs work.

When a door doesn’t close correctly, it obviously fails to seal. If your exterior door is difficult to open or close, the first thing to look for is if something is caught in the door or if something is sticking out from the door frame, such as a screw head not fully tightened against the hinge. Next, determine with a carpenter’s level whether the door is hanging plumb (straight up and down) and if the door jambs are parallel to each other. Sometimes, a screw head not tightened into the hinge can prevent a door from closing properly and over time deform and loosen the door frame or the door. Also, check to see if any hinges move toward or away from the door jamb or if they wiggle. Hinges should be tightly fastened to the door and the door jamb with no other movement except at the hinge joint.

Once I lived in an old house and the back door was hard to close because the whole frame moved with it. It was one of those things I kept putting off to fix. Then one night, I pulled the door shut so hard that I pulled the entire door and door frame out from the wall of the house. I tacked it back in place for the night but the next morning, I settled down to repair it. The original nails had rusted down to the thickness of thread while the wooden shims that kept the door seated properly had rotted because moisture got inside the door frame.

If your door frame moves when you open or close the door, don’t put it off repairing it like I did. Fix it now. First, remove the casing from both the inside of the door and the exterior. Be careful – often in older homes, door casing and other moldings are unique or are no longer available. Sharp-edged casing pry bars are perfect for this. With a little patience and care, you can remove the casing without damaging it too much. A putty knife and a claw hammer are also useful. Again, be patient and careful – you are disassembling not destroying.

After you remove the casing, look for any damage to the wood making up the door frame; such as if it is rotten or split. Check to see if the shims are in place and intact. If everything looks right, check the frame to see if it is plumb. Add shims as needed and check that the door opens and closes correctly. Usually, it is easier to tack a scrap 1? × 2? across the door when it’s closed to seat the door frame properly. When it’s plumb and shimmed, carefully nail the frame into place. Next, vacuum debris from the area and seal up seams and gaps with either caulk or expanding foam. Re-fasten the casing and cover up the old nail holes with color-matched wood putty.

If you can close a kleenex in your door and then pull it out easily or if your door rattles from noise or the wind, it means it’s just not seated snuggly. The easiest starting place to for this fix is to add weather stripping. Usually, doors made over the past 25 years have had weather stripping built onto them. But being a door is rough work. Over time, the weather stripping gets stripped from the door. In some cases, the same weather stripping types are still used by the door manufacturer and can be easily replaced. Usually with much older homes, it’s not the case. You’ll be either replacing worn-out weather stripping someone else applied, or you’ll be putting on brand new.

First, measure the gap between the door surface and the door jamb at several places. Add about 1/16 of an inch to this measurement and this will give you a rough thickness of the self-adhesive foam or felt you will need to apply. Typically, I apply the foam stripping to the door jamb. Since the door jamb doesn’t go anywhere there’s less of a chance for something bumping against it and tearing off the foam. The door, on the other hand, is meant to move and will encounter all sort of things in its travels. As mentioned, you want the door to close firmly. Be sure to buy more foam than you will need so you can add and adjust the foam until you have a good seal.

If your door is in too bad of condition to repair, then it really is no longer a matter of weatherization but security. Seriously consider replacing it. Residential exterior doors come in three standard widths: 30, 32, and 36 inches.

Generally, the most insulating material for an exterior door is wood because it doesn’t conduct heat as easily as metal, vinyl, or fiberglass. That being said, most inexpensive wooden doors don’t fare well over time. They wear quickly in the areas that have the most contact (door handles and foot area), their mounting screws can loosen or tear, and depending on the harshness of the weather they can dry out and split. Steel doors provide better security and stand up to wear but they conduct heat. Wood-core steel doors and foam core doors last longer, are stronger, and better insulated. Fiberglass doors usually are the most strong, durable, and well insulating but tend to be more expensive.

Door Sweeps and Door Jambs with Vinyl Weather-stripping

A door’s most drafty area is along the bottom where it meets the door threshold. Most thresholds are aluminum or wooden ridges that meet the bottom of the door and form a seal. However, since the door is constantly being opened and the threshold is being stepped on, the factory-installed weatherization can wear out quickly. It can be quickly and easily replaced with a self-adhesive vinyl strip that hangs down from the bottom edge of the door. You attach it on the interior side of the door.
There is another kind of door sweep that uses multiple vinyl strips to block drafts. Somewhat more expensive, but it slips on over the bottom edge of the door and is held on with screws.

One product I have used with great success is pvc door jambs with built-in vinyl weather stripping. Mounted on the outside of your door, these door jambs can either replace your existing jambs or slide over them. The vinyl weather-stripping can be pushed up snugly against the door to keep out drafts when the door is closed. Use a circular miter saw to make the proper angled cuts so they can be mounted attractively in place. When they are in position, they can be quickly nailed or screwed into place and then painted. While I like these, there are many other similar kits that might be more suitable for your particular job.

The Laundry Center

The big energy users in the laundry area are the washer and the dryer. The typical washer uses about 0.256 kWh per load. The main cost is obviously the amount of hot water the is used during each load. Top loading washers use up to 40 gallons while front loaders use 10-24 gallons. It is easy to cut costs here by washing in warm or cold water. However, the main energy savings comes from drying your clothes. Even though modern washing machines do an excellent job of extracting the water from clothes by spinning them, they still need to be dried.

Dryers tend not to be very energy efficient because they have one job: force dry, heated air into a rotating drum to evaporate water. Dryers use ten to fifteen percent of domestic energy in the United States. Dryers also cause lint. Lint comes from fibers in your clothing coming loose as the clothes tumble across each other in a dryer’s hot drum. Lint not only collects in your dryer’s lint trap but also through the dryer’s duct work. If lint begins to obstruct or clog your dryer’s duct work, the evaporated water from your nice, clean clothes will not leave the system. If the water is trapped, it will take longer and longer for the dryer to work. Therefore, once a year, pull your dryer away from the wall, detach the duct from the bottom of your dryer, and pull out as much lint as you can from the dryer and the duct. The first time you do this, you might be surprised how much you pull out. You’ll also notice a big improvement in the time it takes for your dryer to dry your clothes.

During the cooler winter months when you are heating your home, you may notice your home feeling drier. While not always a bad thing, if your skin feels dry and itchy or if you notice your sinuses feeling raw and irritated more often, maybe your home is too dry. One way around this is to disconnect your dryer vent tubing from the duct work leading out of the house. Place a nylon sock over the end of the vent tubing and tie it in place with a long twist tie or rubber band. (Make sure you block up the vent going outside). This way, every time you run your drier, you will heat and humidify your house too.

Hanging your clothes not only save energy but also helps them last longer. Dry your clothes on a drying rack or clothes line. If you can’t hang them outside, you can hang them inside by buying a retractable clothes line (outside models are also available). Set up the line in a hallway of your home and hang your clothes to dry while you are at work. Place a large floor fan in the hallway to help circulate the air. Tumble clothes in the dryer for a few minutes until they are warm. This will relax the fibers and you’ll avoid having wrinkled or stiff clothes from hanging.

Getting into Hot Water

The most expensive part of doing laundry is using hot water. And while you might be able to switch to using warm or cold water for your laundry, having hot water for bathing or cooking or washing dishes is an important convenience. Currently, the most efficient way to heat water for a home is an on-demand water heater. While these are increasing in popularity in the US, most homes still rely on the old tank-style water heater. Basically, its a 40 or so gallon tank of water that is heated either by natural gas or electric heating elements. True, the method works well but most of the energy used by tank water heaters is just for maintaining hot water on stand-by and ready for use. That means, it’s heating water when you are asleep or at work or on vacation. So, a lot of energy is wasted. Water heater tanks are wrapped with insulation but adding more will save energy.

Put a water heater blanket around your water heater. Most water heater blankets at the home center tend to be about an inch thick so that they can be sold in one piece but not be too heavy to be held up with tape. These are made of plastic-covered fiberglass and you wrap them around your water heater. In terms of R factors of insulation (R-value indicates an insulation’s resistance to heat flow), you will adding about 3 R’s worth.

You can make water heater blanket with higher R-values. One method is to use reflective aluminum foil insulation (a.k.a. foil-clad bubble-wrap) and cut enough strips long enough to go around your water heater twice. You could then add the store-bought water heater blanket and have an R-value of more than 7.5. With this amount of insulation, you should be able to turn down your heater’s thermostat and save even more money.

For safety, do not block any of the control panels, block off the bottom, or put any of insulation across the top of your water heater. Never obstruct the pressure release valve.

Keeping your hot water hot doesn’t stop at the water heater. Insulating your hot water pipes will also save energy and cut energy costs. Consider this: each time you turn on the tap for your shower, you let the water run until it gets warm. Let’s say the pipe from you water heater to your shower is 20 feet long. Now, that might only be a quart but that can turn into a couple of hundred gallons for a family of four in the course of a year. Also, consider that after your shower, there is still hot water in the pipe. By adding insulation, that heated water will cool more slowly. If you insulate your pipes efficiently enough, heat from the water heater will be more efficiently contained in your hot water pipes. You won’t need to wait as long for that hot water, you will waste less water, and you will save more money.

Just Venting…

There are several ways you can improve the efficiency of your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system (HVAC). If you have an old thermostat that isn’t programmable, turn off your furnace circuit breaker, carefully disconnect the thermostat from your wall, and throw it out.

Programmable thermostats can be found for under $25, are commonly found in home centers, and are easy to install. They connect to the same four wire leads that hooked up to your old thermostat. By programming temperature settings in your house to be colder during the winter or warmer during the summer when you are asleep or away, you can save energy and money.

Another easy way of increasing efficiency is to monitor your system’s air filters regularly. Depending on your lifestyle, you should change the filters regularly. If where you live tends to be dusty from busy nearby streets or if you have pets, change the filters every month. In some homes, it can be done every three months.

While disposable filters are cheaper, their expense builds quickly over time. Consider purchasing two washable air filters. Washable air filters usually cost less than $20 and can be rinsed out in a bathtub with hot, soapy water (in the summer, I hit mine with a pressure washer). By buying two, you can swap in a clean, dry one right way when its time to change out the other dirty filter.

One way to significantly improve your HVAC is to check your duct work thoroughly to be sure the system is sealed. A home owner can save up to $300 from their annual heating and cooling costs by sealing their duct work. Start at your HVAC system and feel for moving air coming from small holes or gaps in the duct work. When you find one, put a piece of aluminum HVAC tape over the hole. Remember: The volume of air leaked adds up; the more leaks you have the less efficient your system is. Check the entire run of your duct work; feel for air leaking from ductwork seams and loose joints. Check at the corners where the metal is folded for leaks, too. Also, make sure that air intake vents are not blocked by furniture or clogged with pet fur.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy Home Energy Saver website, insulating ducts in the typical American home costs about $250. Duct insulation will pay for itself in energy savings in about two and a half years, and continue to save energy and money in years to come. Depending on your duct work, there are many ways of doing this. Some 6 inch and 8 inch diameter sheet-metal ductwork can be replaced with insulated flexible ducting that costs less than $40 for 25 feet at a home center. If you use this, be sure to attach it so that it is snug with the supply ductwork and use aluminum HVAC tape. Other rectangular metal ductwork can be insulated with reflective aluminum foil insulation (foil-clad bubble-wrap), craft-faced fiberglass insulation, and regular gray duct tape.

Remember: you do not need to insulate the HVAC system intake ductwork, just the output side.

The Thing in the Attic

Unless your attic is finished, your attic space is essentially just outside your house’s enclosed thermal envelope. Heated air rises and conducts that heat into the structure and air of your attic and from there to space. Only one thing efficiently maintains and spreads the preferred temperature inside your house: insulation.

Heating and air conditioning account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes. Air sealing won’t benefit a whole lot if there is insufficient insulation for the whole house. Throughout most of the country, the US DOE recommends at least R30 (about 1 foot of blown cellulose or fiberglass) for attic insulation and a minimum of a R13 (a bit more than 3 inches of blown cellulose or fiberglass) in the walls. (http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_06.html) Unfortunately, most homes built in the past two decades are built with R13 in the walls and attic; few have R30 in the attic.

Let’s say your home has R13 of blown cellulose insulation in the attic. The attic measures 1750 square feet and we’ll assume that the insulation has settled. To bring it up to at least R30, we need to add a further 17 R-value’s of insulation to the attic. The easiest way to do this is to either apply another 5 inches of blown cellulose or put down un-faced R19 fiberglass batts (about 6 inches thick).

To figure the cost for blown cellulose to cover the attic space, multiply the square footage by the thickness. Therefore: 1750 × 5 inches (or .416 feet)= 728 cu ft. The home center sells bags that are 16 cu. ft. Divide the 728 cu. ft. by 16 cu. ft and you get 46 (16 cu ft) bags. Some home centers may include the free rental of their blowing equipment as an incentive; others may not. To make the insulation work effectively, it must be spread evenly throughout the attic so that no thin spots or hollows are formed. Also, to keep the insulation out of soffiting, dams need to be built and installed at the end of each ceiling joist (or around light fixtures) before turning on the insulation blower.

Fiberglass insulation is typically figured by square foot. Rolls of R19 come in 23 inches wide or 16 inches wide. This is so the insulation fits between the joists. Roll lengths vary, usually between 48 and 77 feet long (though batts are available). What you should watch out for is just how big the roll is. In other words – can you get it through the attic’s entrance or trap door?

Once you’ve decided on what size works for you, divide the square footage (our 1750 square feet) by the length and you have the number of rolls you need. Craft-faced insulation has a paper vapor barrier facing. Because insulation is being added on top of other insulation in this case there is no need for the paper vapor barrier facing. While it is more expensive that the blown cellulose, fiberglass batts are convenient sizes that can be positioned and laid in place or trimmed as needed. And it’s always better to have extra.

Now, let’s say you’ve figured out how much you need…and that you can’t afford more than $50 at a stretch. Not to worry. The great thing about insulating is that it doesn’t need to be done all at once. You can take your time and build on it. The best way, though, is to figure out what area of your home you want to insulate first. Consider these two things: where is your thermostat located and where do you spend most of your waking hours in the home? Usually, the thermostat is in the living room and that’s were most people spend their time. The solution is simple here: lay in your first bundles of insulation over this room. But if your thermostat is in the living room and you spend your time in another room, such as a home office, you may wish to divide your insulation between the area over the thermostat and the office. In this instance, it’s best to take time to choose what priorities fit your lifestyle and how to proceed from there.

The autumn is the best time to install insulation in your attic. After all, during the summer, it could reach as high as 150° F, especially in a poorly ventilated attic. But, if you want to start saving money now during the peak heating season as well as later on during the air conditioning season, now is the best time to do the job. So, here’s some tips on how to make the job easy:

Know your attic’s layout and plan how to fit the insulation in place in advance. Buy your insulation the day before you plan to install it. Moving around and working in a cramped space takes up an awful lot of time. Start early. It’s a dirty job. Be sure to wear long sleeves and pants, gloves, safety glasses and respiratory protection against dust. Get some help so you can get in and out of the attic faster. The job will go much faster and you both will have someone to complain about the dust to. Take some 2 foot by 3 foot pieces of 3/4 inch thick plywood into the attic with you. Use them to stand or kneel on as you move through the attic. Often you’ll find it’s easier on your shins and knees to rest on the plywood rather than balancing on a joist and risk crashing through the ceiling sheetrock into the bathtub. Start at the far end and work your way back to your attic’s entrance. Insulation works best if it stays “fluffed up” or not compressed. You don’t want spend time putting it down nice and neat and tight only to discover that you must trudge across it to get out of your attic. When you are done, take a warm shower to remove the fibers, dust, and dirt that adhered to your skin. When you’ve finished insulating the attic, you will also want to make sure your attic trap door seals. As mentioned, your attic is just outside your home’s thermal envelope so your attic door is really a door to the outside. Make certain that it closes snugly and seals. Use weather stripping – it will make a difference.

Heat Shield to Maximum!

Your roof is a heat shield for your house. But in order for it to work at peak efficiency, it needs to be adequately ventilated. The National Roofing Contractors Association recommends 1 square foot of ventilation opening should be provided for every 150 square feet of ceiling area. (http://www.nrca.net/consumer/fyi.aspx)

If you’ve ever ventured into an attic on a sunny summer day, you know how hot it can be. Temperatures can easily reach 150° F. Trapped heat increases your air conditioner’s heat load. This raises your energy costs. Trapped heat also can damage the plywood sheathing, under-layment, shingles and personal items located inside the attic.

Roof ventilation works with two kinds of vents, an exhaust and an intake. Heated attic air flows out through a vent in the upper part of the roof. This pulls in cooler air to enter through intake vents located down in the soffiting or fascia board. Most houses built in the 1960s onwards use a combination of soffit vents and either gable vents, roof vents, or ridge venting to allow air to flow through the attic. By allowing the attic to breathe and circulate heated air out, the house is better able to let go of the heat it absorbs during the day.

Retrofitting roof vents is not as hard as it sounds. Nevertheless, it can be daunting to climb onto your roof and cut holes into it. I have found the easiest to install is the ridgevent system. Ridgevents come in metal or plastic kits. It has a hollow inside and either vents along its sides or under a flange. By straddling a slot cut though the sheathing at the roof’s ridge or peak, it allows heated attic air to leave without letting rain inside.

The actual installation technique varies slightly depending on the kit you use but very basically remove the top cap of shingles on the roof, and use a circular saw to cut a one inch wide piece of sheathing from either side of the roof’s ridge. If you’re installing full length venting, you’ll be cutting two slots the entire length of your roof so use a sharp blade and take your time. Afterwards, attach the ridge vent and caulk down the loose ends.

Now that you’ve seen what to look for in your home thermal envelope, you can start planning where to begin, whether it’s walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, doors, or the roof. And while it’s import to consider how your home works as a whole, approach improving it one step at a time. Dividing the project of sealing your home into smaller, manageable jobs around the house makes it easier to tackle. Consider that all these jobs don’t need to be done all together all at once. Tackle ridgevents one weekend, insulation another, or a new thermostat some weeknight after dinner. You should notice more energy efficiency — however slight — after each improvement. They will add up and you will save money and your home will feel more comfortable. But be sure to take your time preparing and researching, read the instructions, and use good tools.

Above all, be careful when considering projects that seem beyond your skill level. If in doubt, hire a professional. After all, sometimes doing-it-yourself can really do-it-to-you.

Design Requirements
Traditionally Hydropro has always put the needs of the customer into the forefront of its company philosophy. By doing this, Hydropro has always stayed abreast of the latest advancements in technology in the water treatment field. In this case, mostly because of the remote location (nearly everything, including fuel for the diesel generators, is delivered by ship), the most important customer needs were associated with conserving energy and maintaining reliability. Availability of replacement parts was also a major concern due to the remote location and the lead-time required to ship items to the island. Another concern Hydropro had to address was ease of operation and ease of maintenance, as the remote island of Ebye did not have any skilled RO plant operators. The end result would incorporate all these requirements to produce a reliable supply of potable water from a seawater source for the citizens of Ebye.

In the original RFP, KAJUR requested twin 75,000 gpd SWRO units (expandable to 100,000 gpd) designed for a seawater feed of 45,000 mg/l TDS. The proposal presented by Hydropro was for two Seawater Reverse Osmosis Water Treatment units each designed to produce 75,000 gallons per day. Permeate water was projected to be of less than 300 mg/l TDS based on feed water from seawater wells with a maximum TDS of 50,000 mg/l and an SDI of less than 3. Each unit was designed to be easily expandable to a daily capacity of 100,000 gallons by the addition of one pressure vessel containing seven seawater membranes. All instrumentation, piping, valves, headers and pumps were pre-sized to accommodate the expansion.

Each proposed SWRO system consisted of four pressure vessels containing seven membrane elements each arranged in a single, one-pass array. With the expansion, the system would consist of five pressure vessels in a single staged array. Each system was designed to operate at a 30-40% recovery rate, with a maximum trans-membrane (feed to product) pressure of 1100 psi at a feed water TDS of 50,000 mg/l. With a feed water TDS of 46,000 mg/l, the trans-membrane pressure was projected to be approximately 900 psi at startup and 950 psi after three years of operation.

System Design
The final, installed 100,000 gpd Hydropro design consisted of the following major components and unit operations for each SWRO unit:

• Sand and Particulate Filters: Two HYDROPRO Tubular filter units Model STF5M2-400- PVC/150 each consisting of one PVC housing with a 150-micron wedge wire PVC screen for the removal of sand and particles, with automatic purge valves
• Micron Filters: Three heavy-duty filter housings constructed of FRP/PVC and built to ASME Code X, the housings are Eden Model 24EFC each accommodating six (6) 40″ long five micron polypropylene cartridges
• RO High Pressure Booster Pumps: Two high pressure feed booster pumps Grundfos Model BM 17-27R (installed in series) – horizontal centrifugal, multi-stage construction of 904L Super Austenitic Stainless Steel, each driven by a 35 HP submersible type motor rated at 460V/60Hz/3Ø utilizing a Soft start motor starter and VFD RO Low Pressure Booster Pump: One booster pump Grundfos Model BM 30-4R – horizontal centrifugal, multi-stage type of 904L Super Austenitic Stainless Steel, driven by a 7.5 HP submersible type motor rated at 460V/60Hz/3Ø controlled by a variable frequency drive
• Membrane Modules: One FRP construction structural frame, five pressure vessels of FRP construction rated at 1200 psi operating pressure, 35 Thin Film Composite membrane elements ¬ 8″ x 40″, 2205 DUPLEX SS headers for feed and concentrate and Sch. 80 PVC for the permeate headers and low pressure feed, suction and concentrate piping, Allen- Bradley PLC SLC 5/04 based control system – installed in a NEMA 4X enclosure with system switches lights etc. installed on the panel door
• Chemical Feed Systems: One anti-scalant dosing system and one chlorine dosing system
• Freshwater Flush/Membrane Cleaning System

The system skid was designed and fabricated for a compact footprint due to limited installation space and to allow for shipping both units in a single container.
The entire system was pre-assembled as much as possible to minimize field services.

The sand screens and micron filters were selected because of the durable and corrosion resistant fiberglass and PVC construction. The specific model of Eden micron filters was chosen to maintain the filter element flux at approximately 3.3 gpm/per 10″ equivalent.

Due to the relative remoteness of the installation site, multistage-centrifugal, high-pressure pumps have been selected for their reliability, availability of parts, economics of operation and easy maintenance. Centrifugal pumps in general are smoother, quieter, and require less ancillary equipment (i.e. pulsation dampeners) than positive displacement pumps. Hydropro has found that positive displacement pumps are much more prone to failure and lengthily downtimes than high-quality centrifugal pumps.

The Grundfos Booster Modules were chosen for several reasons. The inline style helped conserve space and provided ease of installation, allowing everything to be mounted on the same skid (with the exception of cleaning/flush tanks, raw water booster pumps, and chemical feeds). These submersible, multi-stage centrifugal pumps were also chosen because they are very efficient and quiet, and are constructed of corrosion resistant, 904L super austenitic stainless steel.

The high pressure feed and concentrate headers were made of 2205 duplex stainless steel for superior corrosion resistance, and the structural skid was constructed of FRP for low weight and zero maintenance. ERI´s Pressure Exchanger was chosen because of its high energy efficiency, dependability, and corrosion resistant materials.

Performance
Values for the projected power consumption rates that were presented in the proposal were based on a 27ºC feed stream of 45,000 mg/l TDS and a permeate flow rate of 100,000 gpd. The membrane manufactures projection software was used to determine the system parameters at a recovery of 35%, and these parameters were subsequently used to determine the projected power consumption. The result was an anticipated feed pressure of 900 psi and a specific power consumption rate of 3.02 kWh/m³.

Once the system was installed and operating, the specific power consumption was calculated based on actual system parameters and the result was a much lower value of 2.65 kWh/m³. There were several reasons the actual value was lower, the main reason however, was the conservative design. Because of some uncertainty in the feed water quality, the SWRO system was designed with a relatively low flux (approximately 8 gpm/ft2), and a somewhat large hydraulic envelope. As it turned out, the feed water TDS was closer to 36,000 ppm and fairly stable. The lower feed TDS enabled the system to operate at a lower membrane feed pressure of 790 psi and a higher permeate flow rate of 120,000 gpd, consequently using less energy than originally projected and making higher quality permeate.

Conclusion
With most of the system assembled, the installation was fairly straightforward and went smoothly. The two units were installed, started up, tested and operator training was completed in less than three weeks. There was, however, a problem with the feed water quality and the pretreatment system, which was discovered after only 24 hours of operation. It immediately became apparent that the raw water was loaded with particulate that was quickly fouling the sand screens and the micron filters. Fortunately, the feed system could be modified to flow into an existing 250,000 gallon seawater tank from the wells, and the SWRO feed was then drawn out of this tank. This settling tank solution worked quite well and provided a feed water with a pre-filter SDI of 1.25.

There was also one other performance issue that needed to be resolved. Initially, the permeate quality was less than what was projected, and it was not clear why. The system was extensively checked ant tested for leaks, and the possibility that seawater was somehow mixing with the permeate was eventually eliminated. It was finally determined that the membranes did not meet the design rejection required to produce the projected permeate TDS. Once the membranes were replaced, the system was making plenty of high quality permeate that was well below the maximum acceptable permeate TDS.

KAJUR and the residents of Ebye have since been enjoying low-cost, high-quality water for over a year now without any noteworthy system failures. They are so pleased, in fact, that KAJUR has recently awarded Hydropro another SWRO job utilizing work exchanger energy recovery.